He’s
Got Your Back
In the
mid-seventies, backgammon swept the USA. Some of the dust settled north of the
border, and inspired an entrepreneur there to launch a backgammon magazine. Its
trajectory must have been shallow, as there seems to have been only one issue,
but its short flight was impressive. One of its intrepid reporters was
dispatched to the Mayfair Club in New York City. If the scientists at Los
Alamos ushered in the Nuclear Age, the scientific players at the Mayfair Club
helped usher in the Backgammon Age. The man from the Great White North cornered
a few Tellers, Oppenheimers, and Feynmen, to see what they might tell, or
opine, as they were fine men and women. To each there was one question he could
not resist asking, almost before they had given their names and their
achievements: “What about the backgame?” To which most replied: “What about the
backgame?” It was clear that he expected the equivalent of the lore Hermione
found in the restricted section of Hogwarts Library, and soon would know how to
brew the backgammon equivalent of Polyjuice Potion. The experts all tried to let
him down gently, essentially saying that the most special thing about backgames
is that you should avoid them.
Still, I understand how he felt. A few years later, when I took up the game,
backgames held the same fascination for me. The books of the era couldn’t
resist describing them in terms that would naturally lead beginners to think
backgames were a secret weapon of the experts, and that mastering backgames
would show that, you, too, had joined the expert ranks.
If only someone would write a book? Around the time Mr. Canada was in the
Mayfair, a Mayfair player, Paul Magriel, wrote his magnum opus, and said he
would be writing many more books, with one on backgames being among the first
he planned to tackle. It was never forthcoming. Over the years others would promise
they would tackle it. I was among them, but backgames slipped all tackles.
Finally, someone wrote the book! Partial credit goes to Mochy, who wrote a
quarter of a book, Backgammon Masterclass, on backgames. But full marks
go to Encino dermatologist, Dr. Alex Eshaghian, who got the itch and scratched
out Backgammon Backgame Strategies. Heft the book, peek inside, and you
will see and feel why it took so long: doing the job properly took an immense
amount of work. It’s 8.5 x 11, three hundred pages, nearly a kilogram in
weight, and that hardly hints at the contents. There are hundreds of diagrams.
I haven’t counted, and guess it is hundreds, but there could be over one
thousand. Where there aren’t diagrams, there are tables, dozens at least,
probably at least one hundred. The positions had to be conceived, rolled out,
transcribed: that’s a tremendous amount of labor, even if it is a labor of
love.
My one complaint is that I wish there were less of the first three-quarters of
the book, and more of the last third. When I started playing, the books of the
era decreed that the best three backgames, in order, were the 2-3, the 1-3, and
the 1-2. That the higher the anchors, the less like a backgame it was. That if
the gap between anchors was more than one pip, e.g. a 1-4, it weakened the
backgame, etc. As I progressed a bit, and discussed backgame theory with my
friend, Tim Wisecarver, he confirmed the received wisdom, and offered insight
into the whys and wherefores. One of Alex’s achievements is to confirm what
everyone took for granted. The received wisdom is correct, but he has the
numbers to prove it, and the explanations was to why.
I am not sure if
the terms Hintrose and Suhise are Alex’s coinages, or if he borrowed them from
elsewhere, but they are crucial in understanding many of the explanations in
the book. Hintrose is: Hits In the Next Two Roll
Sequence. Suhise is: Subsequent Hitting Sequences.
For example:
The
defender (Black) has 35 Hintrose. That is derived this way: 65 (two numbers)
times any 6 (eleven numbers) equals 22; plus 44 (one number) times 6 or 51 (thirteen
numbers) totals 35 numbers out of 1296 where Black gets and hits a shot. Alex
notes that calculating Suhise is more complicated, and seldom does so, but
notes that the lower the blot left, and missed, the harder it will be to clean
up, so the more Suhise will occur.
The checker play
problem above is the first of a set of three, shown in diagrams 4.15 through
4.17 in his chapter on bearing in against backgames. The next two diagrams move
Black’s man on his 8pt back to the 23pt and 22pt respectively. How should White
play her 31 in each case? (The diagram wrongly shows 33 as the roll, instead of 31. Updating the images is such an enormous pain in the ass on Blogger that I hope this note of explanation suffices.)
In the position about White should not make her 8pt. Black’s timing is such
that playing 11/7, leaving no Hintrose, is best. Move the checker back to the
23pt, and now making the 8pt is best. It blocks sixes, forcing Black to dump to
his acepoint should he roll one. If the spare is on the 22pt, safety is once
again preferred, since fives play to Black’s deuce, the next point he wants to
make, and sixes are a problem for Black, whether or not the 8pt is made.
Here is another
example of the thoroughness of his comparisons.
The above is
position 8.40, in a section called “Comparison of Single Gap Backgames During
the Attacker’s Bear In.” He notates the position as 1-3 (3), which means it is
a 1-3 backgame, and the defender’s prime is from the 3pt out. The spare on the
defender’s 6pt will always sit there, no matter whether the five-prime is from
the 7pt through 3pt, the 8pt through 4pt (1-3 (4)), etc. Suppose the attacker
is on roll in each case, what are the equities?
|
|
CL
E |
SW |
GW |
BGW |
SL |
GL |
BGL |
GAW |
E
ND |
E
D/T |
|
1-3
(3) |
0.491 |
62% |
26% |
2% |
38% |
3% |
0% |
75% |
0.701 |
0.676 |
|
1-3
(4) |
0.388 |
56% |
27% |
3% |
44% |
3% |
0% |
70% |
0.518 |
0.380 |
|
1-3
(5) |
0.321 |
51% |
29% |
4% |
49% |
3% |
0% |
66% |
0.390 |
0.201 |
|
1-3
(6) |
0.293 |
49% |
29% |
5% |
51% |
3% |
0% |
65% |
0.306 |
0.105 |
That is his table
8.13. I trust you can decipher everything, except possibly “GAW,” which stands
for “Gammon Adjusted Wins.” He also has tables 8.14 and 8.15, which give
similar information for an additional eight positions, for the 2-4 and 3-5
backgames. For those White’s formation is shifted back one or two places as
appropriate.
The two most important
columns are the SW and E D/T. The defender’s gammon and backgammon losses
increase as his prime is moved further back, but his overall losses drop
dramatically thanks to his improved timing. Even the position pictured above is
not a double. I won’t reproduce table 8.14, but only 2-4 (3) is a double, the E
ND being 0.869 and the E D/T 0.905. Nor will I reproduce table 8.15, but there
3-5 (3) and 3-5 (4) are passes (the first with a no double equity of 0.984 is
nearly too good), and the others are borderline D or ND. Oddly, 3-5 (5) is barely
no double, while 3-5 (6) is barely a double, 0.870 versus 0.874.
On the next page,
tables 816 through 8.19 compare apples to apples, i.e., the first compares 1-3
(3), 2/4 (3), and 3-5 (3), the others the (4)’s, (5)’s, and (6)’s. This is all
excellent, and useful information, but it reads more like a reference book than
a textbook.
Which is why I was
happy to reach page 233, and Chapter 13: Unorthodox Backgame Tactics. Chapters
13 through 15 are devoted to checker plays. This is the section I wish was much
longer, because there is a tremendous amount of material covered in fewer than
seventy pages. As the author admits, it would take several volumes to do these
concepts justice, and I hope he is the one to expand on what he has done so
far. Here are some examples.
A few years ago I
think most people would have played 17/9 without hitting. Now I expect many
open players would get this right: 17/11*, 4/2*.
This is position
14.8. In positions 14.9 and 14.10 White’s blot on the 21pt is shifted to the
22pt and 23pt. In each case, how should Black play 44?
In the position
shown, Black should play 22/18(2), 8/4(2)*. Black does not have ideal timing
for a backgame. With the recommended play he trails by only 13 pips, 166 – 153.
He equalizes the board strength, and has the flexibility to continue priming,
or otherwise shift game plans as things develop.
Move White’s man back a pip to the 22pt, and making a five-prime from the 4pt out
is best. He has 4s, 5s, and 6s to run of one of his anchors, while keeping his
prime intact.
Move the man back to the 23pt, and now Black should make both barpoints. White’s
66 and 65 are blocked, and 64 slots her 3pt, but leaves a direct shot.
|
|
|
|
I imagine that
seeing these two side-by-side you know how to play them both? When White has
the blot on her ace, Black should hit; when the ace is made, Black should make
his 4pt.
Alex Eshaghian has
written a book that belongs on every serious player’s shelf. No one will ever
write the definitive book on backgames. The topic is too broad and complex for
anyone to do that. But for now, Backgammon Backgame Strategies is as
close as we have come, and will probably remain so far into the future.